Sunday, January 23, 2011

The Temple Mounts of Man

We as a species have produced some pretty awesome things. The Egyptian Pyramids, the Templo Mayor, the Roman Coliseum, and the Mayan Temples of Tikal, Guatemala my father, brother, and I viewed back in 2001.


(http://www.mayatikal.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/04/tikal2.jpg)

The GMU group had the privilege to see a number of temples in Cambodia that match the vastness, design, and wonder of the aforementioned. The first was Angkor Wat.












This temple is a classic example of Khmer architecture with both Hindu and Buddhists influences and was built in the 12th century for King Suryavarman II as a place of worship and government. Slaves played a role in building all of these temples, which was par for the course,  but what I found most interesting was the level of detail and the placement of the structures to the west, which was unusual in this collection of temples. Most of the them were orientated to the east, but Angkor Wat is orientated to the west, in honor of Vishnu, the Hindu God. What I found most striking was the detail in the huge bas-reliefs, that ran around the perimeter in epic fashion.




No need for words, just respect of the skill of those who came before us.

The Ankor Thom has hundreds of faces inscribed in sandstone:






Ta Prohm is known for hosting numerous movies, including the aforementioned Tomb Raider.






It is being restored as the jungle reclaims it, and the largest saw I have seen was cutting the sandstone blocks typical to this area to be used for replacements.


The most interesting thing I ran into at Ta Prohm, was four young boys playing marbles in the dust of the ruins. Their mother was working, picking up trash the tourist had left behind and using a palm broom to sweep the dusty paths inside the walls of the temple.





They didn't ask for money, but for pencils. So in return for taking their picture, I gave them the a few treats, and the ink pens and mechanical pencils I had in my backpack, along with a number of erasers and a lesson in how to use them. They have never seen a mechanical pencil, but I wager it will be the talk of the school when they take it to class. It is good to know you can find kids have other interests at heart besides making making money.

After our adventures, I stopped by another temple to play a round of cards with a few monkeys...needless to say, I lost.



This was an advance civilization at the time, and created beautiful structures that reflected their success. I think it behooves us to learn from these temples to former success and recognize that much that has been built throughout the years has eventually fallen into history and disrepair. It makes me wonder if what we have built here will one day be history and what we will leave behind.

Feed the police...


I ran into a police officer outside of the Ta Prohm (The Tomb Raider) Temple. Google it (Ta Prohm, not Tomb Raider, unless it helps) please, if you don't know about it. I encourage us all to learn all the time. 



As an officer in the Siem Reap police force, his primary responsibility is to provide security for the tourists who move in and out of the world famous temple. I had the opportunity to talk with him a little about his life.

As a preface, Cambodia is just short of a police state, so this had the potential to be a bit intimidating. I use this story as an example:

We were driving into Battambong, when we were stopped by the police for "speeding." Our bus was allegedly clocked going 20 kph over the speed limit. In Cambodia, you generally pay fines on the spot. I had seen this in Phnom Penh, where police just stand by the side of the road, stopping scooters and cars, and the victims reach for their pockets, find currency to share, then go about their business. The bus driver and the group leader went over to talk with the officer, who had a card table set up right on the side of the street. Our dear professor and another student, wanting to pursue another "experiential learning opportunity," left the bus to witness the exchange. With the added population, the officer sent them all packing back to the bus. Instead of paying the fine on site, we were now required to go directly to the police station to "pay" our fine. Our minds began to race with the possibilities of what could be: a shake-down, search, possible arrest, incarceration, stuck in jail forever, etc. all came to mind. The bus driver ended up paying the fine of five dollars with no further injury, but the imaginations of what could have been lingered in our minds. The impression we had going in is the police and military generally operate with impunity. (For the record, our system essentially works the same way, we just pay the courts with a check and actually get points as well. I would much rather pay cash and make it go away.)

So, it may not have seemed to be the best idea to approach this officer, but he was sitting in a plastic chair near the exit, and I asked him how he was. I offer you a sketch of a Siem Reap police officer.

He has been working with them for 17 years. You would think working in public service would be lucrative in a country like Cambodia, but he is paid $50 a month. He studies English, and has to pay the teacher monthly ($15/mo). After his petrol purchase for the "old" scooter he has, he has about $25 left to house, feed, cloth, and recreate with his family. He has a wife, two teenagers, a boy and a girl. He does not want his son to be a police officer. His dream is to use his English to get a better job, so he can send his children to University. He has seen many people come and go from his post, and showed me a card of fellow American police officer he met, who turned out to be an "Officer Dan" from White Plains, NY. He was very proud to know a police officer from the US. 

He was pleasant, friendly, and was present during the shooting of the "Tomb Raider" in which he saw Angelina Jolie on a regular basis. He was unimpressed with her adopting Cambodian children. (This is common. It is virtually unheard of, and the government generally dislikes anyone other than Cambodians raising Cambodians. I wonder how she pulled that off.) John Cena will be there in the near future filming a movie as well, so all you wrestling fans get your tickets now.



In my experience, no matter where you go, people seem to be the same. They work hard, are glad to have a job, and are primarily interested in leaving a better world for their children. Halfway around the world, a friendly man showed up to work, talked nice with the visitors, and made a friend. Remember that the next time you think things are different halfway around the world.